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Starboard's wave boards too darn heavy!
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cgoudie1



Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Posts: 2599
Location: Killer Sturgeon Cove

PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2019 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't entirely agree with this. Pressure is rising in the board because of
heat(mostly), otherwise the water wouldn't bubble out. The question is whether
the pressure rises fast enough inside to do damage, and boards are
designed to withstand pressure from without not from within.
Plus once you think you've got all the water out and you seal it up, then
the water left in there when vaporized (by heat or whatever causes a
pressure differential between the inside and the outside of a board) is much more expansive
than the air it displaced, and has nowhere to go unless it crushes
something inside the board. Putting a board in a box with a dehumidifier is a great
idea, but pumping it down is even more efficient to boil that water out
of there.

A gortex vent might be useful to install, but it sort of depends on how humid your environment is.
I'd pump it down until it stopped leaking, seal it, and just ride it until
it delams (or the feel annoys you).

-Craig (whom has had a couple of boards last a year or more after water intrusion, but ultimately fail)


dvCali wrote:
Heat will not really damage a board, it is the pressure that could build up that does. In your case you have a leak in that board and pressure will not rise up even if you put the board in a oven!

But heat is not going to help much, what matter more is humidity. If you had a dehumidifier and can keep the board in a room with it on it would help a lot. You can build a box out of cheap 4x8 plywood and put a small capacity dehumidifier in it, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G71DZW6?tag=highlightreviews-0939-20.

Otherwise ... wait a few weeks or maybe a few months ... it is winter Shocked
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manuel



Joined: 08 Oct 2007
Posts: 1158

PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2019 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right now it takes about 2 hours for the water to start coming out.
Night temperatures are probably close to 25C and day temps max 30C. So the heat build up is still somewhat progressive.

The black plastic bag that I taped on the hull gets quite hot though. I can still touch and hold it but just barely... The hull is white and I feel like it doesn't get hot enough without it. Anyway, the bag can still vent as it's not completely sealed all around just taped here and there.

More news, there's a hairline crack right in the middle of the mast track. And one drop of water/bubble comes out of it, just not quite enough to drip. Really not sure how that happened. Tips on how to fix this one too?

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jingebritsen



Joined: 21 Aug 2002
Posts: 3371

PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2019 6:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

back to eva and her PHD
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manuel



Joined: 08 Oct 2007
Posts: 1158

PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2019 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I was thinking polyurethane (gorilla) glue injection... simple, waterproof, likes pressure. Maybe enlarge the hole in the insert, tape everything around, inject glue, then tape and shove something in the insert hole with weight above. The pressure will force glue inside when it expands. Then scrape, clean excess resulting foam, sand, and put a bit of epoxy although probably not needed.

For the mast track, drill straight in the middle of the crack, and apply same technique shoving a piece in the track with weight above.

Today, used the tail hole up approach and with good sun all day long, water came out of the insert and tail as well. I mean heat rises, moist air is lighter so it makes sense after dripping to have the holes up.

I did expose the deck to the sun (just not so long) at times and now paper towells in each hole. The mast track was bubbly but without water coming out.

Will continue with this approach until no moisture comes out of either hole and proceeds with repair.

As odd as it may sound I'm actually looking forward to seeing the "real" weight of the board. I had noticed some small bubbles on the hull side of the tail beneath the paint when I got it so it may have been wet even at the time...

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jingebritsen



Joined: 21 Aug 2002
Posts: 3371

PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2019 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

repeat

table of contents

https://boardlady.com/repairmenu.htm

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westender



Joined: 02 Aug 2007
Posts: 1288
Location: Portland / Gorge

PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2019 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Expanding foam could destroy your board if you're not careful.
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isobars



Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 20935

PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2019 3:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not to mention expanding G glue's end result. It cures, at least when not rigidly confined, to a simple, extremely weak, collection of bubbles you can collapse effortlessly. Think the lightly browned marshmallows on next Thursday's sweet potato casserole.

And eat some turkey and ham for PETA. Smile
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dvCali



Joined: 23 Aug 2007
Posts: 1314

PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2019 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

manuel wrote:
Well, I was thinking polyurethane (gorilla) glue injection... simple, waterproof, likes pressure. Maybe enlarge the hole in the insert, tape everything around, inject glue, then tape and shove something in the insert hole with weight above. The pressure will force glue inside when it expands. Then scrape, clean excess resulting foam, sand, and put a bit of epoxy although probably not needed.
.


No glue, and nothing that expands unless you want to do something bad to your board. You can use expanding urethane foam only on open sections, where there is no risk of building up pressure, just to build volume and than sanding down. Study the Board lady Web site (Or ask her, she knows everything about repair!)

For the mast track: is it cracked to the side, or is it the plastic that has cracked? If the plastic has cracked you might be better off installing a new track. If not sand around the mast track at least 2", fill the crack with epoxy + microspheres, put masking tape over the opening of the track, put a track length patch of glass fiber (4oz) over it the whole area, epoxy and trim the patch over the mast opening after is 80% cured.
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manuel



Joined: 08 Oct 2007
Posts: 1158

PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2019 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The mast track is cracked right in the middle at the bottom. Super fine but enough to release pressure. It has stopped "breathing" for a couple of days now.

The PU glue is only to plug the hole, I only intend to use a drop or two. I've been using it to solidify a bad nose job and it's working really well here. The PU glue doesn't expand that much unless exposed to water which then becomes weaker. So I'm using it plain.

I used it to fill my blank fin slot after inserting a plastic bag, worked exactly as intended, only expands so much.

It takes about 4 hours now for water to start coming out. It does wet my paper towels, I except another month or two, should be bone dry Very Happy Very Happy !!! Oh and it feels about just as heavy as before Very Happy !!!

Another couple of days or so and I'm pulling out my sawzall to chop the nose off. Should help with losing weight. Sonofa Wink !!!

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Last edited by manuel on Tue Nov 26, 2019 8:22 pm; edited 1 time in total
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jingebritsen



Joined: 21 Aug 2002
Posts: 3371

PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2019 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

takes months for a board to dry. won't completely. even with a centrifuge, some stays once on.

that's the reality

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