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Deck soft spot repair with gorilla glue
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 5467
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2016 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bred2shred wrote:
windydoug wrote:

Anyhow, as stated my intent was to add to the dialog related to this type of repair as much documentation did not exist on it. Bred2Shred has offered some tips that would improve the viability of this type of repair had I done them. I'm hopeful the research and practicing I did will prove successful.
Hopefully if you are reading this and you are intending to give it a shot, this dialog will help you decide what to do.


Which was more or less the intent of my post. Someone looking at this thread should be aware that there are some "best practices" when it comes to doing composite repairs. Such things as removing all of the existing decals/paint and wetting out the glass with a laminating resin are generally going to yield the highest strength/longest lasting results. As you said, the repair may last, it may not. If I'm going through the effort of doing a repair (no matter how minor), I like to work towards having the highest probability of success.

sm


My new fav saying is
There are more than one way to bake a cake. Period
Should said cake turn lopsided , but still taste ok.. You prob get the point.
I agree that doing something right is the way to go, the right part , can, have different meaning, and under different circumstances.
Given the time, effort and money, in most cases if its worth doing it's worth doing right.

Not everyone is going to have the materials . It's all part of the charm.

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windydoug



Joined: 22 Jun 2005
Posts: 67
Location: Western NY

PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2016 12:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agreed, to both of the two previous posters.
We've all added to the conversation.


Last edited by windydoug on Fri Oct 14, 2016 12:57 pm; edited 1 time in total
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 5467
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2016 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

windydoug wrote:
Agree'd to both of the two previous posters.
We've all added to the conversation.


I have usually on hand carbon and glass, like a 12" square , can send you, good gesture fee, ala none.
Expoxy can be had by West Systems in a small repair quality.

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windydoug



Joined: 22 Jun 2005
Posts: 67
Location: Western NY

PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, how gracious U2.

Seems were are in different parts of the globe, how would that work? Boeing is flying a lot of carbon around these days!
Doug
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 5467
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2016 3:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ahh it's really Colorado
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brettn



Joined: 22 Nov 2000
Posts: 114

PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2016 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was just given a 2014 Tabou 3S with soft spots all over the deck. I don't sail a lot. Seems like Doug's solution or injecting urethane 2-part foam would work. Between kids and mountain biking this board will get ridden 20 times a year at best.

Seems like I could get a way with less holes and fill more area with the 2-part urethane. My soft area is 5 times the size of Doug's. It's a big spot between the straps and an even bigger spot from the front of the mast track to the front straps. The board was free so if this fails I'm only out what I spend going forward.

As the damage is 60% of the deck, stripping and rebuilding would be a major undertaking. Syringing in a bunch of foam seems more doable.
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 5467
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2016 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

brettn wrote:
I was just given a 2014 Tabou 3S with soft spots all over the deck. I don't sail a lot. Seems like Doug's solution or injecting urethane 2-part foam would work. Between kids and mountain biking this board will get ridden 20 times a year at best.

Seems like I could get a way with less holes and fill more area with the 2-part urethane. My soft area is 5 times the size of Doug's. It's a big spot between the straps and an even bigger spot from the front of the mast track to the front straps. The board was free so if this fails I'm only out what I spend going forward.

As the damage is 60% of the deck, stripping and rebuilding would be a major undertaking. Syringing in a bunch of foam seems more doable.


The thread is about as detailed as one 'could' be on the pro and cons .
I read your post carefully and don't see a question.
Best wishes on repairs

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brettn



Joined: 22 Nov 2000
Posts: 114

PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2016 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are correct, I had no real question. I like the money savings and ease of use of Doug's DIY Gorilla Glue solution, but presume to get enough of the glue wet enough, I'd need triple the number of holes vs. squirting in 2-part foam. Maybe I could even get my 2-part foam to spread out 6 inches, which would mean I could do a beach-ball-sized soft spot with only 6-8 holes. Or even less.
With so few holes maybe I wouldn't have to come back with an additional top layer of resin and carbon fibre. So I suppose the question would be whether or not my thinking is sound, or does my strategy have as many soft spots as the board.

My soft spots only sink in at most 1/4 inch when pushed by hand. No crunching. Seems like the chances of success are better when you catch it at this phase.
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cgoudie1



Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Posts: 2597
Location: Killer Sturgeon Cove

PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2016 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the size of and placement of your soft spots, I wouldn't sail that
board in any conditions in which you can't swim to safety. Even with
injections that baby is going to buckle.

Wishing you good luck.

-Craig

brettn wrote:
You are correct, I had no real question. I like the money savings and ease of use of Doug's DIY Gorilla Glue solution, but presume to get enough of the glue wet enough, I'd need triple the number of holes vs. squirting in 2-part foam. Maybe I could even get my 2-part foam to spread out 6 inches, which would mean I could do a beach-ball-sized soft spot with only 6-8 holes. Or even less.
With so few holes maybe I wouldn't have to come back with an additional top layer of resin and carbon fibre. So I suppose the question would be whether or not my thinking is sound, or does my strategy have as many soft spots as the board.

My soft spots only sink in at most 1/4 inch when pushed by hand. No crunching. Seems like the chances of success are better when you catch it at this phase.
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brettn



Joined: 22 Nov 2000
Posts: 114

PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2016 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your point about the buckling issue is a concern. When new, the board worked like a glulam beam. Although how structural is weightless EPS foam. Not much, but it must add something. I could go over the top with additional glass...easier than replacing all the EPS and divinicell. I can't presume the urethan foam will bond meaningfully with whatever it's touching, it's just going to take up space.

That being said, the board hasn't buckled yet. It's a little bit lazy, but I'm inclined to apply my 30 bucks worth of foam and syringes to my free board and roll the dice. Craig when you see a contrite guy with half a board hitch hiking, please give a lift!
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