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rigatoni
Joined: 25 Feb 1999 Posts: 498
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Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2020 1:14 pm Post subject: Replacing foot/deck pads on an older board |
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I have a 2009 Goya One that has been sailed hard for over 10 years and is for the most part in great shape (no dings, board is still light, etc). I love the board and really don't want to replace it. The one problem I've been having over the last few years is the deck padding starting to peel up. I've been hitting it as best I can with Barge Contact Cement and that seems to work OK but as soon as I fix in one place, it starts to peel up in others.
I know that you can buy replacement pads but they are either smaller than the padding currently on the board or just a large generic piece of padding that you would have to custom cut to fit on the board. Am I better off pulling up all the existing pads and replacing? Is this a complicated/tricky/need a respirator exercise (similar to re-gripping a boom)? Any resources or feedback would be greatly appreciated. |
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dllee
Joined: 03 Jul 2009 Posts: 5329 Location: East Bay
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Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2020 1:27 pm Post subject: |
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Buy new replacement before pulling out old pad.
NSI or Windance sells shaped pads.
Easy to scrape old pads off with metal scraper blade used for drywall work in hardware store. Just shove it under the old pad from rail inward, wiggle, and shove farther to center of board wiggling.
Sand off remnants.
Barge is the right stuff, follow directions, have a good time. |
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Brian_S
Joined: 11 Jun 2005 Posts: 249 Location: SE Michigan
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Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2020 1:52 pm Post subject: |
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NSI will make a custom pad in the material/color of your choice. Mail them a paper or cardboard template. Call ahead so they know what to expect. _________________ Brian S
www.miwindsurfing.com |
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Kiteburner
Joined: 20 Jul 2013 Posts: 16
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Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2020 3:40 pm Post subject: |
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I thought a hair dryer was needed, before trying to peel up. ? Or is that just if your trying to salvage pad and re-use after peeling off. |
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isobars
Joined: 12 Dec 1999 Posts: 20936
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Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2020 3:49 pm Post subject: |
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SEARCH the forum for deck pad discussions and stand back. More than anyone could want to know, from people who have padded and/or repadded over a hundred decks, will pop up. Just about every technique and material has been covered. They all work, but the hassles involved range over a 10:1 level of work. I prefer the KISS approach, as it achieves excellent results with VERY little hassle.
BTW, there's Barge cement and there's Barge cement. The yellow-label stuff is fantastic but hazardous indoors, the blue-label stuff isn't waterproof. |
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wynsurfer
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 940
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Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2020 4:45 pm Post subject: |
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I had a Starboard Combat that had the same problem. My results were the same as yours. My final solution was to use West systems epoxy and taping down the pads with masking tape until it sets. Cleaned everything with acetone before applying the epoxy resin. That was seven years ago. |
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willysp
Joined: 11 Jun 2013 Posts: 32 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2020 7:15 pm Post subject: |
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Prep work is key. After you remove the old pad you want to clean really well the surfaces.
When using contact cement (or any product) you want to follow the instructions; if the instructions say let the parts dry for x amount of time, just do that (I used to eyeball the time because I can be impatient and the results were mediocre at best).
Like many types of glues, you will be dealing with fumes. Based on the amount of product you will be using, I think you should be fine if you do the work outdoors. For extra precaution (in case the air is not moving at all, you can have a fan in low to move the air a little bit -I would not aim it directly to the parts you are drying so you don't mess up the drying time?).
Prep work is key.
Good luck and have fun! |
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isobars
Joined: 12 Dec 1999 Posts: 20936
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Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2020 8:39 pm Post subject: |
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willysp wrote: | Prep work is key. After you remove the old pad you want to clean really well the surfaces. |
Please, Rigatoni, read the old threads first. You'll reduce the hassle by 95%, the volatile chemicals by 100%, and the language by 80%, while getting lesser results (i.e., thinner ultimate padding.) After having padded many scores of decks, I'm sticking to my story. |
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swchandler
Joined: 08 Nov 1993 Posts: 10588
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Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2020 11:53 am Post subject: |
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willysp is right that prep work is the key. While I can't speak for Cobra boards, with every Open Ocean board I've bought the pads started lifting over time. The reason was the fact that Brian Hinde would install the pads over the textured non-skid.
What I did to repair the problem was remove the pad(s) and scape and sand away any residual contact cement from the pad and remove the non-skid in its entirety with a single edge razor blade. Then I would thoroughly sand the area where the pads go, and clean things up on the board with acetone for the next step. When re-installing the pad, you need to liberally apply contact cement to both the pad and the surface of the board and let it dry per the instructions. Finally, you apply the pad ensuring that even pressure is used across the whole pad to securely bond it down.
One thing that you want to do is to carefully apply the contact cement within the perimeter of the pad area so that none of it will be visible on the board once the pad is reinstalled.
After the repair on multiple boards, I have never had a recurrence of the problem. |
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